We examine what a vintage watch is, how to recognise a genuine piece and what the characteristics of a good example are.
The definition of a vintage watch
There is no set definition of the term vintage. Most specialists and dealers agree that a vintage watch will be a piece that is 20-30 years old (depending on the specialist you ask!) but less than 100 years, at which point it becomes antique.
How old is my watch?
Unfortunately for dealers and collectors alike, there is no uniform, standard way to age a vintage piece. However, always look for a serial number, if there is one, as this will cut down on the legwork. Some brands are easier to date as the manufacturers, for example Omega, have excellent records which allow you to date your watch exactly.
Where is the serial number on my watch?
The first place to look is on the back of the watch case. If there is no visible serial number on the outside, look on the inside. If you find one, also check the watch movement where the serial number may be repeated. Again, Omega stuck to this for a long time but as watch cases began to be manufactured by other contractors, the most reliable serial number became the one found on the movement.
Is a serial number the same as a reference number?
There is an important distinction between the two; the serial number relates to an individual piece, whereas the reference number pertains to the model number. If you have both, search the manufacturer’s name with each number in turn and see what you find.
Things to look for in a vintage watch
Condition – unlike some areas of vintage and antique collectables, with vintage watches dealers will accept some signs of damage. For example, a well-kept watch that has undergone regular servicing may have replacement parts which are acceptable. Having the original packaging and certificate is always beneficial.
Manufacturer – as with everything, there are watch manufacturers that are more sought after than others. Some manufacturers may have ceased trading which may add to the interest in, and therefore value of, their pieces. Others will have produced only small numbers of a particular style or model, increasing their value to collectors. Always research well before making a purchase.
Watch movement – a vintage watch will have one of two types of movement. A mechanical movement is preferable as it will always command a higher price due to the engineering and workmanship involved in its crafting. Alternatively, a battery powered watch controlled by a quartz crystal, will always command lower prices and are less desirable to collectors.
Repairs and replacements – as mentioned above, some wear and tear is acceptable to dealers and collectors. However, there are some ‘restorations’ that are not. Bakelite bezels will always be preferred, even if damaged, over a replacement metal bezel. Likewise, dials that have been restored or touched up are not generally accepted by the serious collector or dealer. Similarly with watch hands that have been replaced,
Collectable brands of vintage watches
There are many names to follow in the world of vintage watches, the most recognisable being Rolex, Tissot, Omega, and Longines. Names of note from the Art Deco period (1920s and 1930s) include Cartier and Patek Philippe. For the novice collector, though, the best advice is always to go with your heart – if you love something, it will be cherished, regardless of value, which is the essence of collecting.
Vintage watches at Hemswell Antique Centres
Buying from a reputable and trusted seller will give you confidence in the authenticity of the watch you are purchasing. Many of our Hemswell dealers of vintage watches are qualified to carry out authentication and our selection of vintage watches online contains many sought after names including Rolex, Omega, and Longines.