Hemswell Antique Centres’ latest guide will walk you through the essentials of buying antique watches, helping you to make informed and rewarding choices.
At Hemswell Antique Centres we house the collections of many antique watch dealers and we understand that for the hobbyist or beginner collector, what to look for can make all the difference.
What Is an antique or vintage watch?
Before diving in, it’s important to understand the terminology. As with all antiques, watches over a hundred years old are classified as antique. The term vintage refers to a piece that is anywhere between 20 and 100 years old. While both antique and vintage watches are collectable, they differ in availability, price, and practicality.
Antique watches are often of historical significance, featuring intricate hand craftsmanship. By contrast, vintage mid-century watches, while also highly collectible, are often more suitable for everyday wear. Whether you’re searching for men’s vintage watches or vintage ladies’ watches, both categories offer something distinctive for collectors.
For more on the difference between antique and vintage watches, read our guide to antique watches and vintage watches.
Why collect antique and vintage watches?
Every collector has their own reason for their interest in antique watches. Some lean into the history of the watch and the generations it has served, while for others it might be the aesthetics and design of its era. To find out more about the evolution of watch design, read a guide to antique watches.
Pre-dating mass-produced modern watches, vintage and antique timepieces showcase traditional watchmaking skills, the draw for collectors who want to preserve a slice of history.
Antique watch brands to look for
New collectors should focus on more recognised brands to give them reassurance in terms of quality and value. Well-known and highly regarded names in the world of vintage watches include:
Rolex – the Rolex brand is synonymous with durability and timeless design
Omega – Omega watches are renowned for precision and innovation
Longines – Longines is the classic brand offering elegant vintage styles
Jaeger-LeCoultre – the Jaeger-LeCoultre watch brand is celebrated for its fine craftsmanship
Patek Philippe – Patek Philippe is known around the world for being highly collectible and prestigious
The novice shouldn’t write off less well known brands for not being instantly recognisable, however, as many produced excellent watches. Often, for the beginner or hobbyist collector, these can represent great value for money and make an excellent starting point for any collection.
What to look for when buying antique watches
When browsing antique watches, it’s important to evaluate both condition and authenticity. Other factors to consider include:
1. Authenticity – replacement parts reduce value so look for pieces with original parts – dial, hands, movement. Some restoration is acceptable, such as replacing worn internal main springs with period-appropriate parts, to allow the watch to continue to be functional.
2. Condition – age-related wear is completely acceptable and to be expected. Excessive damage - deep scratches, corrosion, or poorly refinished dials - can impact both aesthetics, functionality, and value. Read Antique and vintage watches - how they made the leap from pocket to wrist for more on this aspect.
3. Movement - the movement is the heart of the watch. Mechanical movements (manual or automatic) are especially prized in vintage watches. If possible, check that the watch is in working order or, if not, that it can be serviced.
4. Case Material – antique pocket watches often feature gold or silver cases, while vintage watches vary and can be made from stainless steel as well as precious metals. Obviously the case material affects value and durability.
5. Size and Style – if you intend to wear your watch, think about your own style and what you like - vintage watches are usually smaller than modern ones, and men’s vintage watches are larger than vintage ladies’ watches.
6. Provenance - documentation, original boxes, or known history can add value and interest to a piece.
Where to find antique watches
Vintage watches can be found everywhere from auctions to car boot sales and finding the right piece is part of the adventure.
• Antique Centres and Markets - established antique centres like Hemswell Antique Centres offer a curated selection of antique watches and vintage watches, with knowledgeable dealers who can guide you.
• Auction Houses - auctions can be a great way to find rare or unusual pieces, though it’s important to research beforehand, and remember the buyer and seller’s premium which is a percentage of the final hammer price plus VAT.
• Specialist Dealers - reputable watch dealers often provide serviced watches with guarantees, making them a safer option for beginners.
• Online Marketplaces - while convenient, buying online requires extra caution. Always check seller reviews, request detailed photos, and verify authenticity.
Hemswell top tips for novice collectors
• When you begin your collecting journey, start small and focus on learning. Buy items you like and go with your heart rather than the financial return.
• Never be afraid to ask questions.
• Incorporate the cost of servicing and maintenance int your budget as vintage watches will need both to remain fully functioning.
• Foster strong relationships with trusted dealers and watchmakers, whose knowledge and expertise will be invaluable over time.
Antique watches for sale at Hemswell Antique Centres
A broad selection of vintage and antique watches for sale can be seen online, with hundreds more available to browse in person at our centres. Our dealers can give you peace of mind that their items are authentic, with many of them qualified to undertake the authentications themselves and, when present on site, they are very generous with their time and expertise.
