When it comes to acquiring diamond jewellery, collectors, both novice and experienced, face unique challenges and opportunities. The allure of antique diamond jewellery lies in its craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and the history of the gems. Navigating the complexities of buying diamond jewellery requires expertise. In our latest guide, we explore the key aspects that buyers should consider when purchasing diamonds, from understanding their unique characteristics to ensuring authenticity and value.
Understanding antique diamonds
Antique diamonds differ significantly from their modern counterparts. They are often cut by hand, reflecting the artistry and technology of their era. Key diamond cuts from different periods include:
Old mine cut (18th-19th Century) – these diamonds are known for their cushion shape and deep proportions, this cut exudes warmth and charm.
Old European cut (early 20th Century) – a precursor to the modern round brilliant, this cut features a small table and high crown.
Rose cut (16th-19th Century) - with a flat bottom and domed facets, rose-cut diamonds have a soft, romantic glow.
Learning how to recognise these cuts is essential, as they often influence the diamond's value and appeal to collectors.
Evaluating the quality of antique diamonds
While modern diamonds are judged by the “4 Cs” (cut, colour, clarity, and carat), antique diamonds demand a broader perspective of each, as follows:
• Cut - antique cuts prioritise sparkle under candlelight rather than modern lighting, so their brilliance may differ from modern diamonds.
• Colour - antique diamonds are more forgiving of colour, as warmer tones were appreciated in earlier eras. Always have the colour of antique diamonds evaluated by an expert.
• Clarity - natural inclusions often tell the story of the gem's history and may add to its character. Strive to balance authenticity with desirability.
• Carat - larger antique diamonds are relatively rare and, because of this, often command higher prices. Be aware that their carat weight may not align perfectly with modern cutting standards.
Read our spotlight on diamond jewellery for more about the “4 Cs”
How to authenticate antique diamonds
Authentication is critical to ensure the piece's provenance and value. Here’s how to verify the authenticity of antique diamonds:
• Examine the setting - the mounting can provide clues about the diamond’s age. Look for hallmarks, maker’s marks, or details like filigree that indicate the piece’s era.
• Seek expert opinions - consulting an experienced antique jewellery appraiser can help to confirm the diamond’s authenticity and assess its value.
• Use technology – specialist tools, such as diamond testers and UV light, can help identify natural diamonds and reveal treatments or synthetic origins.
Valuing antique diamonds
Antique diamonds often carry both intrinsic and historical value. To make informed purchasing decisions, buyers should:
• Research market trends - familiarise yourself with auction records, price guides, and current demand for specific cuts or styles.
• Consider condition – imperfections such as chips, abrasions, or poorly executed repairs can all impact the value. Factor restoration costs into any offer you make.
• Account for rarity - unique cuts, or diamonds with provenance from notable designers or historical figures, can command premiums.
Establish relationships with reputable dealers
The world of buying and selling antique diamonds and antique diamond jewellery is as much about relationships as it is about the stones themselves. Buyers should:
Establish a network with trusted dealers and sellers - build a network of reputable sources, including estate sales, auctions, and antique centres like Hemswell, where many of our dealers have professional membership of LAPADA and BADA.
Be honest and transparent - establish trust by being open about your buying intentions and offering fair prices.
Invest in education - stay updated on industry developments and continue broadening your knowledge of antique diamonds.
Ethical considerations when buying diamond jewellery
Ethical sourcing has become increasingly important in the jewellery industry, with reputable dealers avoiding blood diamonds, also known as conflict diamonds. These are defined by The United Nations as “any diamond that is mined in areas controlled by forces opposed to the legitimate, internationally recognized government of a country and that is sold to fund military action against that government.” Antique diamonds often bypass concerns about modern mining practices, but it’s still crucial to verify that your purchases adhere to ethical standards. Understanding the diamond’s history and ensuring it was acquired responsibly can enhance its appeal to conscientious buyers.
Buy diamond jewellery from Hemswell Antique Centres
Buying antique diamond jewellery is both an art and a science and can be tricky, particularly for the novice. Approaching diamond acquisition with care, expertise, and passion ensures not only profitable transactions but also the preservation of history and artistry for future generations. Buying from specialists like the Hemswell dealers will give you the confidence that you are buying authentic pieces and the peace of mind that your purchase bridges the past and present, while combining historical significance with timeless beauty.
With almost 500 stunning pieces of antique diamond jewellery online and thousands more to browse at our centres near Lincoln, you are sure to find something to suit every taste and every budget.
