In this latest guide, we take a stroll back through the ages to investigate the different eras of antique jewellery and which styles characterise each.
Broadly speaking, antique jewellery periods follow similar dates to the reigning monarchs, with the exception of defining design styles such as Art Nouveau, which transcend eras.
Georgian period jewellery
Extending across the reigns of four monarchs (Georges I, II, III, and IV), the Georgian period (1714-1830) also encompasses the Regency period. This was the name given to the years 1811-1820 when the Prince of Wales (later George IV) governed as the Prince Regent, as his father was mentally unfit.
Highly-skilled Georgian goldsmiths worked by hand with gold and silver, incorporating diamonds, sapphires, rubies, garnets and pearls. They were not afraid to use paste in their pieces too, which could be cut to mimic diamonds. Cutting styles included rose cut, old mine cut and table cut.
As the era predates gold regulation, pieces were not hallmarked and require an expert to identify them.
Jewellery design was inspired by nature, featuring delicate flowers, leaves, vines, and birds and these motifs can be seen in rings, brooches and necklaces.
The Georgians favoured stacking rings and rings featuring a large, centre stone surrounded by smaller ones, similar to today’s popular halo style.
Regency era jewellery
The Regency period was heavily influenced by the neoclassic and romantic movements and both these had an impact on jewellery of the time. The Napoleonic era also left an impression which can be seen in Grecian-inspired motifs such as cameos and serpents. Popular stones include turquoise, coral, and agate and sentimental jewellery such as acrostic and mourning jewellery was popular.
Antique Victorian jewellery
While the Georgian era spanned 116 years, it did embrace the reign of 4 monarchs. By contrast, the Victorian era spanned 64 years (1837-1901) and just one monarch! As a result, the period is often divided into three periods, echoing different periods in the life of Queen Victoria:
The Romantic Victorian era (early Victorian) 1837-1855 – early Victorian jewellery featured the nature-inspired symbolism previously seen in Georgian pieces which were often seen etched into gold. Brooches and lockets were popular while diamonds and other precious stones were reserved for evening wear. Snake jewellery was popular as a representation of eternal love and, interestingly, Victoria’s own engagement ring was a gold snake ring with a head set with emeralds.
The Grand Victorian era (mid-Victorian) 1856-1880 – it was during this period in Victoria’s life that she lost her husband which gave way to the rise in popularity of mourning jewellery. These pieces often featured dark, heavy stones such as jet and onyx. Around this time, too, we see a rise in popularity of jewellery crafted from shells, mosaics and brightly coloured stones.
The Aesthetic Victorian era (late-Victorian) 1880-1901 – towards the end of Victoria’s reign, jewellers moved towards brightly coloured stones (sapphire, peridot). There was also a move away from the natural themes of the early Victorians, with astral themes (stars and crescents) becoming popular.
Victorian jewellery is known for being deeply meaningful. Themes of love and religion are prevalent (hearts and crosses), as are floral themes, where flowers were chosen to convey a message, for example a forget-me-not brooch. Mourning jewellery and lockets often held personal keepsakes such as a lock of hair.
Edwardian jewellery
Occurring during a period of peace and prosperity, Edward VII’s reign (1901-1910) later came to be part of what Europeans referred to as La Belle Epoque (The Beautiful Period). Edward loved luxury and his reign was seen as a time of frivolity and wealth among the upper class.
Considered an important jewellery period and the last to be named after a monarch, the Edwardian jewellery era saw the emergence and subsequent rise in popularity of platinum. Although a strong metal, platinum could accommodate delicate and intricate designs, particularly useful at this time when femininity and delicacy prevailed. Millegrain and ‘lace’ jewellery encrusted with diamonds was popular and the cool platinum tones went well with the popular pastel colours at the time.
Diamonds and pearls continued to be popular while deeply coloured gemstones (sapphires, rubies, emeralds) were used less and less; when they were, it was as accent stones.
As fashion changed and necklines became lower, necklaces became popular and were often worn as full length pieces that fell below the waistline.
As well as jewellery periods named for the monarch of the day, there are also two notable design eras that cannot be overlooked.
Art Nouveau jewellery
Spanning from the end of the 19th century to the First World War (1890-1915), Art Nouveau was a celebration of all the decorative arts and was in complete contrast to the ‘fussiness’ of the Victorians. With natural designs such as flowers (think Louis Comfort Tiffany), Art Nouveau jewellery features fluid, curved lines and often depicts women in flower form. Pieces are made from enamel and glass and are set with opals and moonstone.
Art Deco era jewellery
Very much associated with the ‘Roaring Twenties’, the Art Deco era (1910-1939) was characterised by glamour, luxury and progress. The changes witnessed by the fashion and design world at this time were also reflected in the jewellery, which was influenced by modern industry techniques and seen in innovations including cultured pearls and invisible settings. Design was characterised by clean, geometric lines with jewellery settings and materials chosen to highlight the precision of the designs. Diamonds and platinum were favoured by Art Deco jewellers, enhancing the sleek angular designs and representing the luxury and sophistication of the time. The discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 led to a mass interest in all things Egyptian and this influence can be seen in the use of pyramid, chevron and step motifs. Exotic materials such as lapis lazuli and turquoise, alongside the colourful gemstones, created vibrant pieces full of life and colour.
Antique jewellery at Hemswell Antique Centres
At Hemswell Antique Centres, we are home to dealers of quality, antique jewellery from every era. So whether you are looking for Georgian period jewellery, Edwardian jewellery, or art deco era jewellery, our dealers will have something to suit. Browse our antique jewellery online and if you see something that captures your heart, come along and see it in person. With platinum and gold, diamonds and rubies and everything in between, you will not be disappointed by a day with us.
