What to look for when buying antique jewellery

27 January 2025

What to look for when buying antique jewellery

Whether you are a collector hoping to add to your collection or just looking for a gift for someone special, our guide will tell you what to look for when buying antique jewellery.

Understanding styles and periods of antique jewellery

With the term antique referring to anything aged 100 years or more, antique jewellery crosses many eras, from Victorian pieces to Art Deco and more. Collectors will often favour specific time periods but for the novice, it is important to take the time to research different eras and the styles associated with them. For example, the Victorians favoured symbolism with motifs taken from the world of nature, as well as coloured gemstones and ornate designs. Following the death of Prince Albert, mourning jewellery came into vogue too, using materials such as jet and onyx. 

Jewellery hallmarks

The hallmark on a piece of jewellery can provide valuable information including the date, country of manufacture, quality of the metal and even the maker of the piece. Remember, though, that it was not a legal requirement to hallmark until 1973, and not all countries mark their jewellery so where there are no hallmarks, this does not necessarily mean that the piece is not old or of a certain quality. For gold lovers, our guide to identifying antique gold hallmarks will help.

The condition of antique jewellery

As with all areas of collectables, condition is key as it is the condition which typically affects value and price. Examine any piece closely, looking at the stone settings where there are any – claws should be undamaged and secure. Stones should be free of chips or nicks. Check the reverse of the piece too, as you will get a better idea of whether the piece was made in keeping with the methods of the time, or whether it is a reproduction. 

Has the antique jewellery been repaired?

Any repairs or alterations that have been carried out are sometimes more obvious at the back of the piece so check closely. Antique jewellery, by definition, is old so signs of repair, resizing, or repolishing can be expected. Provided any work has been carried out sympathetically and well, it will not affect value.

The authenticity of antique jewellery

It is important to make the distinction between a reproduction piece i.e. a piece made in the style of a particular period or designer, and a fake, which is made and passed off as genuine, in order to deceive. Style is cyclical, coming round every few years, so reproductions are perfectly acceptable.

Signs to spot on a fake include how the piece was made – antique jewellery is usually handmade whereas more modern pieces will have been cast. Modern cut stones may have been used which did not exist originally and, very importantly, there may be minimal signs of wear which you would expect to see in an antique piece.

Establishing provenance

In addition to authentication, establishing provenance is important, particularly for any pieces of historical or cultural importance. No one would buy a ring purporting to have belonged to Queen Victoria, for example, without proof, be that photographic evidence or written testimony. Reliable dealers can often provide documentation and when buying, you should always ask if any proof of provenance exists. 

Is the antique jewellery wearable?

Unless you are a collector buying simply to create a collection, your piece of antique jewellery will be worn. While your choice has undeniably stood the test of time, will it continue to stand up to the rigours of 21st century life? Should it be saved for special occasions only or is it hardwearing enough for daily wear? These are all important considerations that can affect your final choice. 

Hemswell Antique Centre jewellery

Building trusted relationships with antique jewellery dealers is invaluable and at Hemswell, our dealers are amongst the most knowledgeable and passionate in the country. When on site, Hemswell dealers will happily answer any questions you might have and will be able to talk to you about the piece you have chosen. We display items from every historical era and a small snapshot can be viewed in our antique jewellery online.